Project # 1: The Glass Menagerie

Today I realized I finally picked a project. 

Close up and Personal

After class I ran out to Governor Stables to hit up the Glass Menagerie (or Glass Arete; I get a bunch of different responses about whether or not it is the same problem or not, but menagerie just sounds better.) It is a V1 problem with a bit of a tricky start. The holds are pretty decent (albeit sharp), but it is the feet that give you the most trouble because you will think you have a solid foot and suddenly you just slip right off. I guess that is why the glass part is in the name. 

I have watched Shea, a fellow climber, and my guy run up and down this thing, but for some reason I just kept slipping off. On Wednesday, instead of the gym, I came out with my BF and he had me try it a few times and I managed to get on the huge crag up to the right of the rail before I slipped off.

Needless to say, I was ecstatic. 

But then sadly, we had to head out because of responsibilities out in the real world, but I decided that this is the problem that I have been looking for to really work on.

Looks like fun, right?

Even though this is a really tricky route for me, I love how I start this problem. For most people, it is a two hand start with your left hand on the huge triangle thing on the rail and your right has the bottom of the rail under cling style, then a decent (but sometimes glassy) foot for your right and you sorta smear your left. 

However, that never worked for me. So I have the left hand the same, but I have my right in a pinchy crimp on the face. Then there is this triple bump action that happens where I go from the pinch to right under the giant slab, then quick over to the section where the rail turns horizontal.

I must have sat there for at least 45 minutes today trying to get through the triple bump to the horizontal part with no success, which is okay because I don't have a crash pad yet and I really wouldn't have been able to go any higher anyway. So the goal is to try and get this route tackled either before or at the competition that is coming up. Wish me luck!

Go love some rocks!