New Website--Beta

So I was just looking at this blog the other day and I realized that it has been an unusually long time since I posted anything. I have many excuses--work, friends, work, some car stuff, but no one wants to hear about that. Instead, I have come bearing great news--I am creating a website! I know, I know, try not to faint out of excitement. You might be wondering why I am creating a website (seems kinda out of the blue), but in fact the real reason that I am creating it is for my web writing class that I am taking this semester and since I needed to pick something that I love, this seemed like a great choice.

The Idea...
So it goes a little something like this:
The website is going to be called Beta: All About the Climbing Basics. If the title wasn't self explanatory enough it is going to be a website dedicated to all of the climbing newbies and beginners and will have information on climbing history, tips about gear and how it works, the different niches in climbing, and some common climbing phrases so that you can at least sound like a real rock climber; and trust me that is a big confidence boost. You may not be able to climb that 5.8 slab runner on the arete yet, but you will be able to curse it in proper technical fashion. 

The Execution...

Overall, I am really psyched about this project and I am hoping to use it in a loving partnership with this blog and experience an increase readership, fame, fortune, and glory. Realistically, this site should be looking at rough/"I have to turn this in for a grade right now" completion around mid to late October, but I have no idea how rough it is going to be so the best I can estimate is that I should have a working, albeit possibly not very beautiful, site by November. Honestly, I am so excited that I don't even care when it is going to be finished, but that I am going to have the amazing opportunity to make it. So wish me luck and if you have any suggestions as to what you would like to see on the site as a beginning climber then please, please feel free to send me the ideas. If I get enough maybe I will put together a thank you page for all of the people who contributed their ideas. Okay, enough gushing for one day and I hope that you are all out there lovin' on some rocks for me while I am stuck inside trying to become more intelligent. 

:) 

Surviving the Extremes... of Everyday Life

So I have been reading this book, in between the crazy blurs of my life that I call work, other work, and then various trips with people I love, called Surviving the Extremes. Basically, it is written by a doctor who decides to go out and practice medicine in like the Amazon and on Mt. Everest and just studying how the body works and needs to accomplish to survive in these really extreme places around the world.
I have to admit that I didn't think that the book was going to be this interesting, but Dr. Kamler breaks everything down medically and explains how things like drowning, heat stroke, nitrogen narcosis, and other potential hazardous things that can happen to you when you are in these extreme environments. I that if you are an adventurer and are outdoors a lot more than the average person you should have a better understanding of your body and how it works and what is going to happen when you get into trouble.

So a few things that I have learned:
1. It is good to be fat if you are stranded in the ocean, but really bad if you are stuck in the desert.

2. Fish are actually purely protein so while it is good to catch and eat them for food, it is also a good idea to try and eat a bird for the fats and carbs.

3.  Sometimes no matter how prepared you are it might all come down to just having the right things at the right time in the right place.

4. No matter how cold the air is always get out of the water. The water might feel warmer, but you are expending heat and energy to stay above it.

5. The ideal temperature for human body chemistry is at 82 degrees and it only takes 4 degrees to disrupt body functions.

6.  When you drown it is because the aveoli in your lungs have the lining washed off when the water comes in and they can't inflate.

7. Oxygen in diving tanks is mixed with nitrogen, hydrogen, or helium because breathing pure oxygen under the pressure of the deep ocean for an extended period of time can kill you.

8. You can drink urine or salt water to help keep your fluids up, but only in very very minute quantities because they are extremely toxic in the human body in large or extended doses. 

It is always a good idea to be safe and to be as prepared as you can mentally for bad circumstances or situations. This is a good book to get acquainted with some of those things and is also just a really good read and while my life hasn't been that extreme, I definitely have been busy. So here is to being back and hopefully loads of good climbs this summer. Now go love some rocks.

Freedom and Happiness

It is finally over. 

For the last few weeks I have been completely crushing final projects, papers, and short stories instead of the rocks. However, the pleasant news is that now I can take a deep breath and get back into the swing of my climbing routine. 

Actually, I just finished watching the documentary, To the Limit, just to get myself back into a positive and excited mind state about climbing. It is about two German climbers that are trying to break the speed record (2 hr and 43 minutes) of the Nose at Yosemite.
 
Now the only problem is that it is 1:30 in the morning and I am really really excited about climbing and not so much about sleeping. Not a very well thought out plan, but I learned some things about happiness and learning to accept, and then tackle, my fears from it so I really can't complain. Not to mention I just watched an hour and a half of awesome footage of Yosemite and Patagonia. 

I think that the quote that stuck with me the most talked about how happiness, sometimes, is just part luck. There are times where you just have to be there at the right time in order for it to happen. Then there was also a moment when Dean Potter talked about how facing your fears on the wall is just a way to prepare for facing fears off of the wall. Rock climbing is in a way just a giant metaphor for life.  

With these ideas in mind I think that I am going to try out some route over at Governor Stable tomorrow once I have secured a crash pad for the afternoon. So excited!
Go love some rocks guys. 

One Step Closer to Being Broke 99.9 Precent of the Time

 Working with drunks 'til 2 a.m-- Sounds like fun, right?

I recently have discovered that I am fed up with working at the bar and have also been fueled by the minor panic that I am going to graduate soon and I still don't have a single "career" job or anything remotely related to my field of study or interests lined up. 

While I was out at my local gear shop, EMS (Eastern Mountain Sports), I figured, "Heck lets just see if they are hiring--" and God was listening and they were. Score. I filled out the application and then proceeded to the worst part of the job search process... waiting. Now here is where the story gets interesting because I probably wouldn't be at this stage if Brandon hadn't pushed me. 

Of course when I told my equally addicted boyfriend that I might be getting a job at his frequently visited gear shop he almost exploded. Literally. Then we proceeded to strategize and plan a way for us to continue to be together and not go completely broke. 

In the end I think we settled for a payment plan. 

So when I started losing hope that I wasn't going to get a call back Brandon insisted that I call and see. Partially to help me out, but I also think he couldn't let this opportunity to buy loads of gear from his inside connection to pass us by. I called and, after an awkward feeling conversation with one of the store managers, I passed the phone screening. 

Today is Interview Day!

I am not too nervous, I actually think it is mainly excitement. I mean as part of my interview I get to stand in front of a wall of rock climbing gear and just talk and share my love of climbing---which is basically what I do in this blog... minus the epic gear wall behind me. I also found out last week that one of the other managers is a guy that climbs at my gym :) All in all, wish me luck and go out and love some rocks for me!

Not Good or Bad, Just Aware

On my climbing reading list is Arno Ilgner's, Esspresso Lessons, which I picked up last year after having an amazing clinic on falling and the Warrior's Way. I am only through the first chapter, but something that he wrote really struck me,

"When you operate from awareness, you are curious about what happened right at the moment you let go. Yes, not when you fell but when you let go... Did your body or your mind let go?"

I have noticed a lot when I climb that if I know that I am trying to work on a problem that is "out of my level" or if I get too in my head and over think the problem, it is my mind that lets go. The funny thing is that my body could probably handle the problem just fine. 

One of my friends is the same way. She is actually a really good climber for having just started only a few months ago, but gets worried, or maybe intimidated, when it comes to bouldering because of the different skill sets and the lack of a rope to help you out. I think at some point all climbers face this problem when they start pushing out of their comfort zones or start work in something new. 

So far what I have learned is that you shouldn't just brush off the fact that you are uncomfortable, but try and work your way through the problem and keep note of what you are thinking and feeling so that you can learn from it. Also, don't rate a problem as good or bad depending on if you complete it. The next time you climb be aware of how you are feeling and thinking when you are working on a problem; then determine whether or not the climb was good or bad based off of how you felt, rather than, just getting to the end.

Remember that not every problem has to be competition, 5.10 amazing, sponsor worthy--sometimes it is just nice to goof around and climb for fun. Just something to think about on your next climb :) Now go love some rocks!

Cross Training: Coreture

Coreture: [kohr-cher] noun 

1.  a exercise circuit that focuses mainly on the body's core muscles 
2. an extreme core workout
3. awesome word mash-up (core.torture)

One of the awesome things about rock climbing is that you can strengthen many different muscle groups without really having to think too hard about it or hop on to six different machines. That is not to say that by just rock climbing you are going to get that awesome beach body toned up for swimsuit season--it needs a little help. 

Coreture, despite the terrible sounding name, is actually really important. When you climb you are focusing a lot on your arms, legs, and muscles in your back. And you might think, 
"Well why do I need to focus on my core muscles? They don't really help me climb any better."


Yes--in fact they do.
A lot of the time you are using your core without even knowing it. So if you are stuck in a climbing rut this might be the little extra help you need to improve your climbing. 

Here are a few benefits of a little core attention:

• If you climb using your core muscles you are taking a lot of strain and weight off of your arms, which makes your arms fatigue much slower. 
• You also have a better sense of your center of gravity and can climb a lot smoother.
• Muscles like your obliques, lower back, and diaphragm, which often get over looked, can help improve/strengthen your climbing technique and breathing.
• You look amazing when you want to climb with your shirt off.
• Starting from a low or sit start problem will be less difficult because you can use more than just your arms to pull you up.  

Now that I have your attention, the next question is what exercises will help strengthen your core. Here are the exercises that I do at my gym after climbing--You might want to do this with friends because 1) it pushes you a little harder and 2) it is a little bit less torture and more fun that way.  

Brit's Coreture Routine:

 Start off timing a minute for each exercise and as you get stronger increase the time. Also, give yourself 30 seconds rest and make sure that you stretch out (yoga moves like child's pose, sun salutation, and downward-facing dog are good resting/stretching positions).

• Crunches- classic ab working exercise
• Penguins- a fun way to work your obliques. Start in your crunch position but instead of sitting up, pull your body to the right and touch your foot with your right hand. Then pull around and touch your left hand to your other foot. Repeat. You should look like a waddling penguin--except you are on your back. To make this harder, move your feet farther away from your body so you have to lean farther to reach them. 
• Planks- everybody's favorite in two fun variations: front plank and side planks.
• Walking Planks- start in a normal front plank (forearms on the ground) and push up with your right arm so that you are now in a push-up position and then push up with your left. You should now be in full push-up position. Then let your right arm go back down on to your forearm and then do the same with your left. Alternate which side goes up first as you repeat. 
• Backwards Crunches- lay down on your stomach and either have your hands at ninety degrees by your head or resting on your back, lift your chest and upper body up as high as you can and lower yourself back down. Repeat. 
• Walk Up Your Legs- start in a crunch position and lift one leg off of the ground, you can keep it straight or bend it to change the difficulty, and sit up and "walk" your hands up your leg and then "walk" them slowly back down. You only want to touch your leg, not pull yourself up using your hands THAT'S CHEATING! Switch legs and repeat. 

There are many other exercises that you can add and tailor the routine so that is is exactly want you want. I hope that you enjoy your first coreture work out and see positive results. 
Now go love some rocks!

Photo Blob: Safe Harbor 4.3.12

So I finally got time to get a hold of these photos of my first lead climb (and other random shots) at Safe Harbor--this is really all that this post is going to be. My deepest apologies, but my brain is just so fried from last minute papers and projects that I don't even have enough left to impart any story or advice. Again, sorry to those that enjoy the talking head. 

Also, a quick thanks to David, because it was your camera, and Brandon, because you were sick and you still took some amazing shots. <3

Double Belay for +20 safety

The first bolt on Pro Bono

The crux (I think)

Tip #1: Check to make sure you have enough gear to finish the route

Round 2 with enough gear....Flashed!

 Go love some rocks guys!

Learning to Take the Lead

The next step of my climbing evolution has begun. 

i.e. I  successfully lead a sport route today. 

What's left of the old railroad by entrance

Now, before you start judging, I have never lead climbed anything before in my life and so that, in and of itself, is an accomplishment.  We [David, Brandon, Nicky, Alex, and myself] decided to hit up Safe Harbor, which is a beautiful trail that was converted from the old railroad that runs above the Susquehanna River, outside of Conestoga, Pa. 

The day was to consist of hitting the rocks early and enjoying some climbing; they were going to lead sport and I was going to TR (top rope) it. I had mentioned that I was nervous because I had never sport climbed before and I was going to be the only girl, noobie climber, but Brandon and Dave assured me that I would be fine.  In fact, Dave was still pretty new to the whole thing too, so it actually went really well. 

I was only able to lead climb one route, it was a 5.7 I believe, but I got the chance to run up it twice. It is a funny story actually. So we get to this sport climb and we have TR a 5.9 and Dave tried leading another route before that one and we were looking to get an easy lead. We decide that I should go first and, after a quick lesson on how not to back clip myself, I'm off. 

Lead climbing is actually really easy. The worse part is getting over the mind game of the rope not being in front of you. My biggest problem with lead is that I am not used/ don't like the weight that sits right below my waist because of the rope. So I was doing amazing and it looked like I was going to on-sight (complete a route with no beta the first time) the route, but then one bolt from the finish I realized that I didn't have enough gear to get to the top. I had one quickdraw left and I would need three to finish safely. 

This was a mega bummer, but I came down and let Dave finish the route and clean it up so that I could run up again... with more gear. So I missed the on-sight opportunity, but I was able to grab a flash and also some valuable beta on lead belaying. 

Dave and Alex "racing"

For everyone learning to lead climb, be aware that it is actually easier to climb than to belay a lead. At least in my opinion. 

Favorite photo of the day :)

Sadly, because I was climbing, all the shots of my first lead are on Brandon's iPod or Dave's camera so as soon as I see them I will try to put them up. Until then you can check out my awesome shot of Nicky on a 10.b (? maybe 10.a?)

Bottom line-- don't be afraid to try lead climbs, they aren't that bad. Just shut up, nut up, and go love some rocks.

Surviving The Meltdown

So excited as I walk down into GS

So I am sure that you guys are all dying to find out how Meltdown went on Saturday and to quickly sum up--it was amazing! As far as goals were concerned I did indeed rock out in Hello Kitty, but with a few added wardrobe changes because it was chilly and misty for a majority of the competition. I also managed to score a 765 which not only beat my score at Frostbite, but also earned me first place in the Women's Beginner category.  

A quick run down for those who are unfamiliar with the way a competition runs. At this competition I had 6 hours (roughly) to complete 15 of the hardest problems that I could. The judges would only take my 10 highest scored routes and the other five would be used in the event of a tie. Then you add up the numbers and see who had the most for each category. In the Beginners my problems ranged from a V0 (around 10-90 pts) to V1 (around 100-180 pts). 

Funny story was that I was so cold and tired that I didn't really even comprehend that I had won until BF and I were walking to the car.  

Sadly, the Glass Arete still kicked my butt, but I was able to gain some valuable beta on a knee lock that made setting myself up for the second part of the problem so much easier. Hopefully, next time Glass will be mine. 

Other high points were:  

• Meeting Kate (mystery last name?) and trying to crush problems that were way outside of my experience :)
• Crushing mainly V1s all day 
• Having so much fun that I forgot to eat until almost the end of the comp and BF force fed me  bits and chunks of bagels (and then proceeded to finish the rest)
• Seeing some of the amazing photos of me climbing (I promise I will get you the link when I find out when/ where they are posted) 

All in all, just an amazing day and I walked away with some amazing gear and stickers and a sense of accomplishment. Sorry no photos this time guys :( but hopefully, next time--now go love some rocks! 

Cross Training-- Crush Some Top Ropes!

Why my shoe? Why not :)

I was finally able to make it to the gym yesterday (I blame my professors who believe in waiting until the last month and a half of school to decide to make us do things). 

Lately, because the weather has been so nice and because I have been working on more of my bouldering technique for my competition, I found that I have been snubbing the top rope climbs when I am at the gym. I am a decent climber and I can (usually) flash a 5.9 and get a 5.10 after a few times and because of that (and that I am no where near as good at bouldering) I just put it on the back burner. 

This is not a good idea, guys. 

Last climb of the night

Not because it is going to be detrimental to your climbing or that you are going to get on the wall and have to start at a 5.6, but because it is actually a really good part of your climbing workout.  

If we compare climbing to running (everyone knows running, right?) bouldering would be the same thing as your speed and specialty strength training. You can work on specific moves and technique a lot easier if you are bouldering because it is a shorter route and it is usually already focused on those particular skill sets. Top climbing is the endurance workout. This is where you test out your ability to put it all together and then have to keep climbing for ten more minutes. 

I got on the wall last night with my friend and we stayed mainly on the ropes, because she can't stand bouldering, and I realized how much I had missed top climbing and also how much better I had become in my actual technique. After almost a month of straight high intensive, short climbs, I noticed how much more relaxed and smooth my climbing had gotten. 

So the moral of the story is to mix up your climbing every once in a while, you will probably be surprised by the results. Oh and do coreture (or a crazy amount of core exercises after just finishing climbing), but that is a story for another post :) 

Go love some rocks!

Meltdowns and Hello Kitty

I am super pumped that I have exactly one week before "Meltdown." 

"What is Meltdown?" you might ask.

 

 

This is Meltdown :)

It is a outdoor competition that is at Governor Stables (<3 this place). In case you guys didn't read the above bolded print or the conveniently placed mini poster --it is next Saturday. This is going to be my second competition, my first was the "Frostbite" comp. in February and I finished with a score of 431... and second to last place. 

So here are my GOALS  for Meltdown: 

1. Score higher than 431 points 
2. Place better than second to last (I guess if I have more points I will place better, but just in case)
3. Crush the Glass Menagerie (current Project)
4. Complete random V1 route out by the Mushroom area (current side project)
5. Accomplish goals 1-4 completely decked out in Hello Kitty

Wait, what? 

Yup, you heard me--Hello Kitty. I am not sure exactly how it happened, but it started because I waited until 3 hours before I had to go to work (at a bar) on Saint Patrick's Day and I couldn't find any green shirts that I liked at Hot Topic so I settled on this one Hello Kitty shirt. There was going to be some matching sock action, but I thought I might have already been pushing my luck with the shirt so I didn't do it. Then somehow my friend/ co-worker, Renee, said that I should just deck myself out in Hello Kitty for the competition. I thought it would be a unique and fun experience so I agreed. 

Which means that today I went back to Hot Topic and completely destroyed their Hello Kitty section (I spent like $66 and got one of everything) and even got both of the sales associates really excited in creating my overall look (there was also no one else there so they might have helped me out of pity, I lack punk fashion skills, or sheer boredom.)

The Loot

In case you couldn't tell.. I am super pumped. Oh and the post colors were also Hello Kitty inspired :) Now go love some rocks!

Project # 1: The Glass Menagerie

Today I realized I finally picked a project. 

Close up and Personal

After class I ran out to Governor Stables to hit up the Glass Menagerie (or Glass Arete; I get a bunch of different responses about whether or not it is the same problem or not, but menagerie just sounds better.) It is a V1 problem with a bit of a tricky start. The holds are pretty decent (albeit sharp), but it is the feet that give you the most trouble because you will think you have a solid foot and suddenly you just slip right off. I guess that is why the glass part is in the name. 

I have watched Shea, a fellow climber, and my guy run up and down this thing, but for some reason I just kept slipping off. On Wednesday, instead of the gym, I came out with my BF and he had me try it a few times and I managed to get on the huge crag up to the right of the rail before I slipped off.

Needless to say, I was ecstatic. 

But then sadly, we had to head out because of responsibilities out in the real world, but I decided that this is the problem that I have been looking for to really work on.

Looks like fun, right?

Even though this is a really tricky route for me, I love how I start this problem. For most people, it is a two hand start with your left hand on the huge triangle thing on the rail and your right has the bottom of the rail under cling style, then a decent (but sometimes glassy) foot for your right and you sorta smear your left. 

However, that never worked for me. So I have the left hand the same, but I have my right in a pinchy crimp on the face. Then there is this triple bump action that happens where I go from the pinch to right under the giant slab, then quick over to the section where the rail turns horizontal.

I must have sat there for at least 45 minutes today trying to get through the triple bump to the horizontal part with no success, which is okay because I don't have a crash pad yet and I really wouldn't have been able to go any higher anyway. So the goal is to try and get this route tackled either before or at the competition that is coming up. Wish me luck!

Go love some rocks!

Celebrating with Something on the Rocks

I am sitting in the basement of my school in the Mac Lab thinking about what to write as a first post. Sadly, Jeshanah, my friend and muse,  is too busy working on her assignment for creative writing that she has become unavailable for my novice questions. 

Honestly, all I can think about is that I only have one more class to go before I can hit Climbnasium (my local gym) for the second time this week. I have noticed that I am slipping farther and farther into my addiction as I have started incorporating climbing into my short stories, everyday conversations, and I have even resorted to trying to get my friends hooked.

 At least, my boyfriend understands, but then again, he's a climber too. So, I guess that doesn't help me much with my "problem." In fact, we met at a climbing gym. Haha. 

So for all of you who seem to be experiencing similar problems, feel free to join in. I am just an climbing addict--and I'm proud of it. :D

Go love some rocks!