Thursday, April 19, 2012

One Step Closer to Being Broke 99.9 Precent of the Time

 Working with drunks 'til 2 a.m-- Sounds like fun, right?

I recently have discovered that I am fed up with working at the bar and have also been fueled by the minor panic that I am going to graduate soon and I still don't have a single "career" job or anything remotely related to my field of study or interests lined up. 

While I was out at my local gear shop, EMS (Eastern Mountain Sports), I figured, "Heck lets just see if they are hiring--" and God was listening and they were. Score. I filled out the application and then proceeded to the worst part of the job search process... waiting. Now here is where the story gets interesting because I probably wouldn't be at this stage if Brandon hadn't pushed me. 


Of course when I told my equally addicted boyfriend that I might be getting a job at his frequently visited gear shop he almost exploded. Literally. Then we proceeded to strategize and plan a way for us to continue to be together and not go completely broke. 

In the end I think we settled for a payment plan. 

So when I started losing hope that I wasn't going to get a call back Brandon insisted that I call and see. Partially to help me out, but I also think he couldn't let this opportunity to buy loads of gear from his inside connection to pass us by. I called and, after an awkward feeling conversation with one of the store managers, I passed the phone screening. 

Today is Interview Day!

I am not too nervous, I actually think it is mainly excitement. I mean as part of my interview I get to stand in front of a wall of rock climbing gear and just talk and share my love of climbing---which is basically what I do in this blog... minus the epic gear wall behind me. I also found out last week that one of the other managers is a guy that climbs at my gym :) All in all, wish me luck and go out and love some rocks for me!

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Not Good or Bad, Just Aware

On my climbing reading list is Arno Ilgner's, Esspresso Lessons, which I picked up last year after having an amazing clinic on falling and the Warrior's Way. I am only through the first chapter, but something that he wrote really struck me,
"When you operate from awareness, you are curious about what happened right at the moment you let go. Yes, not when you fell but when you let go... Did your body or your mind let go?"
I have noticed a lot when I climb that if I know that I am trying to work on a problem that is "out of my level" or if I get too in my head and over think the problem, it is my mind that lets go. The funny thing is that my body could probably handle the problem just fine. 

One of my friends is the same way. She is actually a really good climber for having just started only a few months ago, but gets worried, or maybe intimidated, when it comes to bouldering because of the different skill sets and the lack of a rope to help you out. I think at some point all climbers face this problem when they start pushing out of their comfort zones or start work in something new. 

So far what I have learned is that you shouldn't just brush off the fact that you are uncomfortable, but try and work your way through the problem and keep note of what you are thinking and feeling so that you can learn from it. Also, don't rate a problem as good or bad depending on if you complete it. The next time you climb be aware of how you are feeling and thinking when you are working on a problem; then determine whether or not the climb was good or bad based off of how you felt, rather than, just getting to the end.

Remember that not every problem has to be competition, 5.10 amazing, sponsor worthy--sometimes it is just nice to goof around and climb for fun. Just something to think about on your next climb :) Now go love some rocks!

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Cross Training: Coreture

Coreture: [kohr-cher] noun 
  1.  a exercise circuit that focuses mainly on the body's core muscles 
  2. an extreme core workout
  3. awesome word mash-up (core.torture)
One of the awesome things about rock climbing is that you can strengthen many different muscle groups without really having to think too hard about it or hop on to six different machines. That is not to say that by just rock climbing you are going to get that awesome beach body toned up for swimsuit season--it needs a little help. 

Coreture, despite the terrible sounding name, is actually really important. When you climb you are focusing a lot on your arms, legs, and muscles in your back. And you might think, 
"Well why do I need to focus on my core muscles? They don't really help me climb any better."


Yes--in fact they do.
A lot of the time you are using your core without even knowing it. So if you are stuck in a climbing rut this might be the little extra help you need to improve your climbing. 

Here are a few benefits of a little core attention:
  • If you climb using your core muscles you are taking a lot of strain and weight off of your arms, which makes your arms fatigue much slower. 
  • You also have a better sense of your center of gravity and can climb a lot smoother.
  • Muscles like your obliques, lower back, and diaphragm, which often get over looked, can help improve/strengthen your climbing technique and breathing.
  • You look amazing when you want to climb with your shirt off.
  • Starting from a low or sit start problem will be less difficult because you can use more than just your arms to pull you up.  

Now that I have your attention, the next question is what exercises will help strengthen your core. Here are the exercises that I do at my gym after climbing--You might want to do this with friends because 1) it pushes you a little harder and 2) it is a little bit less torture and more fun that way.  


Brit's Coreture Routine:
 Start off timing a minute for each exercise and as you get stronger increase the time. Also, give yourself 30 seconds rest and make sure that you stretch out (yoga moves like child's pose, sun salutation, and downward-facing dog are good resting/stretching positions).
  • Crunches- classic ab working exercise
  • Penguins- a fun way to work your obliques. Start in your crunch position but instead of sitting up, pull your body to the right and touch your foot with your right hand. Then pull around and touch your left hand to your other foot. Repeat. You should look like a waddling penguin--except you are on your back. To make this harder, move your feet farther away from your body so you have to lean farther to reach them. 
  • Planks- everybody's favorite in two fun variations: front plank and side planks.
  • Walking Planks- start in a normal front plank (forearms on the ground) and push up with your right arm so that you are now in a push-up position and then push up with your left. You should now be in full push-up position. Then let your right arm go back down on to your forearm and then do the same with your left. Alternate which side goes up first as you repeat. 
  • Backwards Crunches- lay down on your stomach and either have your hands at ninety degrees by your head or resting on your back, lift your chest and upper body up as high as you can and lower yourself back down. Repeat. 
  • Walk Up Your Legs- start in a crunch position and lift one leg off of the ground, you can keep it straight or bend it to change the difficulty, and sit up and "walk" your hands up your leg and then "walk" them slowly back down. You only want to touch your leg, not pull yourself up using your hands THAT'S CHEATING! Switch legs and repeat. 
There are many other exercises that you can add and tailor the routine so that is is exactly want you want. I hope that you enjoy your first coreture work out and see positive results. 
Now go love some rocks!

Monday, April 9, 2012

Photo Blob: Safe Harbor 4.3.12

So I finally got time to get a hold of these photos of my first lead climb (and other random shots) at Safe Harbor--this is really all that this post is going to be. My deepest apologies, but my brain is just so fried from last minute papers and projects that I don't even have enough left to impart any story or advice. Again, sorry to those that enjoy the talking head. 

Also, a quick thanks to David, because it was your camera, and Brandon, because you were sick and you still took some amazing shots. <3

Double Belay for +20 safety

The first bolt on Pro Bono


The crux (I think)


Tip #1: Check to make sure you have enough gear to finish the route



Round 2 with enough gear....Flashed!
 Go love some rocks guys!

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Learning to Take the Lead

The next step of my climbing evolution has begun. 
i.e. I  successfully lead a sport route today. 

What's left of the old railroad by entrance
Now, before you start judging, I have never lead climbed anything before in my life and so that, in and of itself, is an accomplishment.  We [David, Brandon, Nicky, Alex, and myself] decided to hit up Safe Harbor, which is a beautiful trail that was converted from the old railroad that runs above the Susquehanna River, outside of Conestoga, Pa. 

The day was to consist of hitting the rocks early and enjoying some climbing; they were going to lead sport and I was going to TR (top rope) it. I had mentioned that I was nervous because I had never sport climbed before and I was going to be the only girl, noobie climber, but Brandon and Dave assured me that I would be fine.  In fact, Dave was still pretty new to the whole thing too, so it actually went really well. 

I was only able to lead climb one route, it was a 5.7 I believe, but I got the chance to run up it twice. It is a funny story actually. So we get to this sport climb and we have TR a 5.9 and Dave tried leading another route before that one and we were looking to get an easy lead. We decide that I should go first and, after a quick lesson on how not to back clip myself, I'm off. 

Lead climbing is actually really easy. The worse part is getting over the mind game of the rope not being in front of you. My biggest problem with lead is that I am not used/ don't like the weight that sits right below my waist because of the rope. So I was doing amazing and it looked like I was going to on-sight (complete a route with no beta the first time) the route, but then one bolt from the finish I realized that I didn't have enough gear to get to the top. I had one quickdraw left and I would need three to finish safely. 


This was a mega bummer, but I came down and let Dave finish the route and clean it up so that I could run up again... with more gear. So I missed the on-sight opportunity, but I was able to grab a flash and also some valuable beta on lead belaying. 

Dave and Alex "racing"
For everyone learning to lead climb, be aware that it is actually easier to climb than to belay a lead. At least in my opinion. 

Favorite photo of the day :)

Sadly, because I was climbing, all the shots of my first lead are on Brandon's iPod or Dave's camera so as soon as I see them I will try to put them up. Until then you can check out my awesome shot of Nicky on a 10.b (? maybe 10.a?)

Bottom line-- don't be afraid to try lead climbs, they aren't that bad. Just shut up, nut up, and go love some rocks.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Surviving The Meltdown

So excited as I walk down into GS
So I am sure that you guys are all dying to find out how Meltdown went on Saturday and to quickly sum up--it was amazing! As far as goals were concerned I did indeed rock out in Hello Kitty, but with a few added wardrobe changes because it was chilly and misty for a majority of the competition. I also managed to score a 765 which not only beat my score at Frostbite, but also earned me first place in the Women's Beginner category.  

A quick run down for those who are unfamiliar with the way a competition runs. At this competition I had 6 hours (roughly) to complete 15 of the hardest problems that I could. The judges would only take my 10 highest scored routes and the other five would be used in the event of a tie. Then you add up the numbers and see who had the most for each category. In the Beginners my problems ranged from a V0 (around 10-90 pts) to V1 (around 100-180 pts). 

Funny story was that I was so cold and tired that I didn't really even comprehend that I had won until BF and I were walking to the car.  

Sadly, the Glass Arete still kicked my butt, but I was able to gain some valuable beta on a knee lock that made setting myself up for the second part of the problem so much easier. Hopefully, next time Glass will be mine. 

Other high points were:  
  • Meeting Kate (mystery last name?) and trying to crush problems that were way outside of my experience :)
  • Crushing mainly V1s all day 
  • Having so much fun that I forgot to eat until almost the end of the comp and BF force fed me  bits and chunks of bagels (and then proceeded to finish the rest)
  • Seeing some of the amazing photos of me climbing (I promise I will get you the link when I find out when/ where they are posted) 
All in all, just an amazing day and I walked away with some amazing gear and stickers and a sense of accomplishment. Sorry no photos this time guys :( but hopefully, next time--now go love some rocks!